Our readers share tales of their ramblings around the world.
Who: Cecily Nabors (author) of Silver Spring, Md., and her friend Julie Small of Olney, Md.
Where, when, why: In mid-November, Julie and I flew to Panama for a week-long trip led by the Audubon Naturalist Society (ANS), with a local leader, Carlos Bethancourt. We've taken many naturalist trips with ANS, but this one provided an exceptional combination of nature observation, history and current events. We stayed at the Canopy Tower, a converted military installation topped with a now-empty radome, in a small, fenced enclave in the heart of Soberania National Forest.
My personal goal for the trip was to see a harpy eagle, one of the world's largest and most powerful birds of prey, whose population is declining. Julie was hoping to see one of Central America's big cats — a jaguarundi or even a jaguar. And we both were interested in the history and construction of the Panama Canal.
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Highlights and high points: The Canopy Tower provided spectacular treetop views. We began our days sipping warm beverages high on the fifth-floor observation deck, a magical place in the early morning. We could see Panama City's tall buildings in one direction and ships moving along the canal in another. Birds and animals were all around us. We learned how to scan the branches of cecropia trees for movement. A typical scene: Amid songs from a green shrike-vireo and the yells of a red-lored parrot, a mantled howler monkey clambered about, then leaned forward and let loose its deep, hollow howl. A monkey — before breakfast!
The tropical birds were delightfully overwhelming. Cotingas, antpittas, antwrens, tanagers, hummingbirds, manakins — hundreds of species in a palette of colors. Calm and beautiful trogons, soft puffbirds, raucous gangs of orange-crowned parakeets that Carlos termed "the local Mafia." My personal list of birds reached 170 species in seven days.
Dining under observation made meals more interesting. One day, a male three-toed sloth alternately napped and watched us from outside the open windows of the dining room (on the fourth level) as we ate breakfast. He even stayed through lunch. Apparently, he had no pressing appointments. During several meals, a palm tanager waited patiently on a windowsill for us to finish eating, then flew in to pick up our crumbs.
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As a primarily diurnal animal, I savored our night journey in an open truck, moving slowly through soft, cool air in the dark forest with a bright moon above. A pair of olingos skittered through moonlit trees while sleeping sloths clung by their claws to slender tree trunks.
Cultural connection or disconnect: It was great to see the iconic Panama Canal, built by the United States and now proudly maintained by the Panamanians. The canal provides 10,000 jobs, according to the historian who spoke to us.
Biggest laugh or cry: I did get to see a harpy eagle, but sadly, the majestic bird was in a flight enclosure. She was a captive, born in Miami and given by the United States to Panama because she's the country's national bird. We took many pictures of this huge eagle, with her great crown of a crest, but all of the photos had bars in the background.
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How unexpected: The sheer fecundity of the tropical rain forest, with its vast numbers of plants and animals, contrasted vividly with the hard-edge scientific and military presence of the Canal Administration. The huge cargo and cruise ships looked so incongruous as they sailed through tropical verdure in the narrow Culebra Cut. The immense ships dwarfed the canal channels.
Favorite memento or memory: Julie's favorite memory is the boxing match we saw between two northern tamanduas (a.k.a. banded anteaters). They stood on their hind legs and jabbed at each other, unmindful of our presence. The fight ended when one scuttled away up the hill as the victor disappeared into his new-won territory.
I remember fondly our two-sloth viewing. The mama two-toed sloth came slinging her way across open treetops with a round-faced baby clinging to her; they looked supremely pettable. Minutes later, a male three-toed sloth climbed through the same tree, slowly stuffing his mouth with leaves.
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Because we didn't get our fill of Panamanian wildlife, and Julie still needs to see her exotic cat, we hope to visit again soon.
To tell us about your own trip, go to washingtonpost.com/travel and fill out the What a Trip form with your fondest memories, finest moments and favorite photos.
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